General Feedback/Getting Started Q&A Thread

This thread is for questions that are typically not permitted elsewhere on /r/DIY. Topics can include where you can purchase a product, what a product is called, how to get started on a project, a project recommendation, questions about the design or aesthetics of your project or miscellaneous questions in between.

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Hi all, I'm planning to install handrails on my new concrete stoop, which will naturally involve drilling holes for the fasteners. I'm well aware that it's important to get the dust out of the holes. However, I don't have an air compressor on hand, which I know would be the ideal. Would a can of compressed air do the job if I need the more direct blowing contact that my smallish shop vac and electric leaf blower wouldn't provide? Or should I try harder to get a hold of a compressor? Thanks.

My first time working with aluminum / powder coating so excuse the ignorance:

https://ibb.co/17q3P21

I laser cut out a shape from a sheet of aluminum of caliber 22 and took it for some powdercoating.

I noticed a minor kink in the shape which doesn't seem to be in the laser cut file and I would like to smoothen it out. I imagine something happened when they hung the sheet to coat / heat.

Am currently thinking of filing it and then retouching it but I could use some advice on what time of equipment or even if there are other ways. Thanks!

Hi all.

To my understanding, I should be lining my concrete walls with something like this, right? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-FOAMULAR-250-2-in-x-48-in-x-8-ft-R-10-Scored-Squared-Edge-Foam-Board-Insulation-Sheathing-52DD/202085962 . And I should be doing something like this with it: How to Insulate Crawl Space with Foam Board - Crawl Space Ninja ?

And I've been told the edges of these boards need to be sealed. Does anyone have any advice on what kind of tape should be used? ZIP flashing tape: https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-3-4-in-x-90-ft-ZIP-System-Tape-5017100/204836782, Vapor barrier tape: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Summit-Supplies-Polyethylene-Waterproof/dp/B08174678F/ref=sr_1_3?crid=32NUDHG0G0LJ3&keywords=vapor+barrier+tape&qid=1685735449&sprefix=vapor+barrier+tap%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-3 .

Thanks everyone!

I need to core drill 8” diameter hole 12” deep. This is through freshly set concrete patios I have around 20 to do. What’s the most efficient way?

I recently cut out old deteriorated and hole-ridden screens from the porch of a house I moved into last year. We just got the house repainted and now I'm looking to install new screens on the porch. Particularly, using this DIY system: https://www.ezhandrail.com/screen-enclosures/screen-panel/

However, one of the wooden posts that I will need to screw some aluminum extrusion into is pretty twisted along its length and I'm concerned that this will make it nearly impossible to perform a good install with the aluminum extrusion.

Photos: https://imgur.com/a/EzzCTLm

I was thinking about how I could try and "straighten" out this post without having to rip it out and put a whole new one in its place. Perhaps a series of shims glued in and then sanded square would do the trick?

Are there much better or easier solutions any of you can recommend? I'd really appreciate it.

https://imgur.com/gallery/O6h84FR
Hey guys, I'm looking to take out the white backsplash we have now and install something else that goes all the way up. I'm afraid if I rip it out though the drywall will come with it in pieces. How would you guys go about removing and installing? Thanks.

My current exterior door jam measures to 5.75”. It’s a 2x4 frame for the wall with red brick on the outside. Would I be better to order a jam at 4 5/8” or 6 5/8”. We are set on a door, but they only come in these sizes. Would it be easier to trim down the jams or add to them?

I'm moving to a new place and I wanted to make the electrical blinds smart, so that I can control them via the phone.

I bought some Sonoff dualR3 relays, and I wondering if I can install them in this wall socket.

My blinds have 2 buttons, one to pull them down and one to pull them up and when I open the socket this is what I see:

​

https://preview.redd.it/unk1qtntwq3b1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=82324869304e8ada59ad7278d17e4cd5bc8bae25

and this is the wiring diagram of the sonoff

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https://preview.redd.it/lxv55go0xq3b1.png?width=1332&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=99e49a1d878dcc028e95f8e6867c16144b3382d9

​

Can someone tell me which wire goes into which hole in the sonoff?

If I turn down all the electricity in the apartment via the main switch panel, as I do when I mount ceiling lamps, nothing can shock me right?

​

Then if possible, I would also add these relays on some light switches, but I opened a socket and the wire colors are a bit different, do you think I can still install here the sonoff?

This is a light socket:

​

https://preview.redd.it/joaqu5qkxq3b1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=d12ccfb6645e195a204bae4812f53173c08ca751

And this is the wiring diagram from sonoff:

​

https://preview.redd.it/h41qlu9mxq3b1.png?width=1078&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=3852f8505e0ec414fa131f7ad80fbf9816339fa2

In this case what wires do I need to plug where?

​

Thank you

Hello All,

I was wondering if anyone had any advice for how to replace the drywall here or if it needs it. If there is another way I am happy to try it. If it need replacing, is there a video I can watch to learn how to do that? I am handy around the house but have never had to mess with Drywall.

The two pictures show the play in the plate. The top one is pushed in and the bottom one is pulled out. It has play so I am not sure what the right fix is.

​

https://preview.redd.it/v9torr0cso3b1.jpg?width=2494&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=7bd49fabaedcfc738c61d7f1c9d59d52e954e1ed

https://preview.redd.it/3xgptr0cso3b1.jpg?width=2494&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=cc1ae07067975628bdfd6cbc47b7e5bf764c0541

Since this sub only allows one pic posts I’ve added a Imgur link for imagines of both capacitors below:

https://imgur.com/a/kl2dbsq

Hello, so my ceiling fan spins very slow. I live with my grandmother and she gets cold very easily so that means air stays at 75°F… for me that is a near unbearable indoor temp and I’m constantly sweating and feeling like I’m dying from the heat. My problems comes from the fact the ceiling fan in my room spins extremely slow even at max speed. I’m not fully sure but I believe a bad capacitor could be the cause and I’d like to switch the 2 above and see if that fixes the issue. The one with the white sticker that says H1 in red comes from a fan in a different room that never gets used but spins very fast. The other fan capacitor coming from the fan in my room that doesn’t. Im wondering if it would be okay for me to switch them without the possibility of damaging or even breaking the fans.

I tried to bring a fibre-optic cable from basement to ground floor via an empty cable tube (I don't know what it's called sorry. It is called leerrohre in German).

After about 10m, the guiding cable tore off from the fibre-optic cable and now I have 10m of cable stuck inside and no cable protruding from either sides.

The vacuum cleaner technique didn't work and the electrician said to consider that tube not usable anymore.

So I'm here to ask you fine people if you know if anyway to take the cable out ?

My house has a stair that has an addition attached to the house. The stair is about 1/2" below the original house floor. I am getting some carpet put in the new addition and I want to level the "stair" with the rest of the house so there is not a mini step at the transition. Somethings I have read says don't glue plywood to concrete, and others say don't worry about it. What say you DIY? It is one stair in a moisture controlled environment, but the application is purely cosmetic. Should I worry about eventual expansion and contraction of the plywood breaking the glue bond of the concrete stair, or just go ahead with the project and and not worry about it?

​

https://preview.redd.it/ixb4g99h8m3b1.jpg?width=1000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=824b816c18ca403c2fb63576a82efb9e1dd28eb9

I am planning to buy a led lighting system like the one in the picture for my fish tank.

Can anyone advise how I can figure out, before even buying it, if it is compatible for use with a timer ?

Not long ago I bought a led light which did switch off during the "off phase" of the timer but then did not switch back on when the "on phase" began.

The sellers on don't seem to be too sure when I ask them about this.

​

https://preview.redd.it/iav83qhmno3b1.png?width=800&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=281bc823437c791395afcd7e8ffd930c54ae0e29

I haven’t opened the the old fan yet but I’m assuming I have a always hot wire for the fan, a neutral, and a switched hot wire for the lights. My new fan has a remote control and I want to use the remote only for the fan speed and not the lights. Do I cut the blue wire from the light kit and attach it directly to the switched hot in the wall? What do I do with the exposed blue wire coming off the RF just cap it? Thanks for the help.

We had a tree fall on our house 2 years ago and it destroyed part of our deck. Of course the insurance company would only pay to replace part of the deck, so we have one section that is totally new boards and one that with very old decking. The old boards are in pretty good shape, they’re just weathered. The previous owners used a deck resurfacer (really thick, textured paint) that is chipped and peeling away, and has obviously been that way for at least 3-4 years. There was a ton of algae growth under the paint that we mostly got rid of with power washing and a good oxiclean scrub down.

So I’m thinking our next steps should be 1. Scrape off remaining paint (it’s already coming up in huge sheets) 2. Rescrub newly exposed decking 3. Sink deck screws and sand everything down with a large orbital sander 4. Stain the deck with a semi-transparent stain

Does this seem like the right plan of attack? My biggest concern is the new and old deck boards looking drastically different and not blending well. I really do not want to deal with the headache of peeling paint again, so I’m hoping to use a stain. I’m thinking sanding will help even out the color of the old deck boards. If you’ve been in a similar situation, did you have success with semi transparent stain?

Pictures of our deck for reference https://imgur.com/a/TzKkO5N

I had a handyman install three identical ceiling fans last year in preexisting rough in’s. One of the three moves much slower than the others, even when they are all set on the same setting. Any advice on how to fix this? The room is above the garage and my daughter sleeps there, so we would like to make it more comfortable for her

Hi, I'm looking for some help with an issue with a 3-way switch in my bathroom.

I have two 3-way switches on either side of the bathroom that controls one light. Right now, one of the switch (A) can control the bulb as long as the other(B) is in a specific position - say OFF. If B is ON, then switch A doesn't do anything and the bulb remains off.

Also, B can control the light only if A is in a specific position - say OFF. If A is ON, B doesn't do anything and the bulb remains off.

I replace the B switch since it felt somewhat flimsy but that didn't help. Wanted to check here before replacing A.

Here is the wiring on both switches:

https://imgur.com/a/OQHNzV0

Thanks!

So here's what I'm working with:

I purchased these awesome "floating" pinewood shelves off of etsy awhile back. I was putting them up in drywall, and since they're pretty heavy and I want to store stuff on them, I got some heavy duty 3/16" toggle bolts to anchor into the drywall for the shelf brackets. Each of these toggle bolts needs a 1/2" pilot hole drilled in, and then the toggle bolt slides in and is set for the screw.

My first two pilot holes are perfect - no issue. On my third, I notice my drill is encountering unexpected resistance. Turns out, my third hole hit a stud in the wall.

So, now I have a gaping 1/2" hole in a stud. I can't use the toggle bolts because they can't flare out properly in the stud wood, and the hole is too big for any stud anchor I can find. A guy at my local hardware store also said that it may be dangerous to try and widen that hole with any anchor since 1/2" has already been bored out of the 2x4 stud.

I've included some pictures of what I am working with in case it helps. [HERE]

Points A & B are my successful toggle bolts, point D is my problem child, and point C is where the final hole would be drilled for the second bracket.

Should I:

1. Patch up and fill in point D, then screw into the wall without anchors on points C and D and trust that that will bear the load?
2. Use a different type of anchor (maybe a concrete one) that can fill that 1/2" hole?
3. Patch it up and make new holes where there isn't any stud?

Or is there some other way I haven't thought of to solve this issue? Thanks in advance!

https://imgur.com/a/lNLTKsw

The lever for my sink faucet just came off. I can push it back on but it remains loose. Not sure if I’m missing something to secure it. Any help would be appreciated!

I know that backrolling walls after spraying is imperative to ensure even cohesion and distribution of the paint, but what about trims for windows and doors?

Do I need to backroll after spraying trims?

I’ll be spraying with SW Urethane Trim Enamel paint in semi-gloss. I’ve already sanded the trim smooth to prep it for primer, and then the 2 coats of Urethane paint.

I am planning on building a 10x12 treehouse (not connected to the tree) using 4 4x6 legs. I was planning on digging holes and pouring a concrete footer with sonotubes but kept running into too many large roots and was getting frustrated after spending an hour of digging only to have to pick a new location, re-square my holes, etc. I need to go down to 42" for frost protection.

I am now leaning towards using DIY helical piles/ground screws. I am hoping that screwing these in will be quicker and less frustrating if I run into a root and it seems like the base is only 6" so I have a little more wiggle room compared to a 10" hole for a sonotube. My biggest concern is that these don't offer uplift or lateral load protection. For uplift it sounds like you can use self-tapping screws to lock them in place. For lateral load I am wondering if that would be an issue with a treehouse like this (again not connected to the tree) assuming I use some cross bracing on 2 or 3 legs? I was thinking about having the 4x6 go about 4 feet off the ground. Is this a reasonable approach or will it be too wobbly?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pylex-50-in-Adjustable-Foundation-Screw-10555/308949220

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pylex-Adjustable-Deck-Support-Multi-Format-33-66-Black-Pack-of-2-Units-12098-2/323603764

I used "Eva" rugs purchased from a local "fix price" hardware store (CIS store) Spent: 1 evening and $12

What is fits inside:

• PC
  • Motherboard Aorus B550M
  • CPU AMD Ryzen 7 5800X
  • 2x 8GB XPG RAM
  • Gigabyte Vision OC 3070Ti
  • HDD
• Wires to connect any periphery to PC
• Gamepad
• Mouse

The weight is about 6.5-7 G

Empty bag

First layer from back, need to cut corners to compensate for bending

First layer in bag. Small recess for the protruding part of the motherboard

2nd layer with 1st RAM and motherboard

3rd layer to cover a motherboard and 2nd ram.

Video card in factory box cover, but with 2 cuts from top and left.

Put a factory cover form video cart to cover it from top. And all periphery

close an bag.